Відео

If you add a attic fan without adding more soffit venting you can end up pulling air from the house instead. Yeah, it will cool the attic - because it's pulling your air conditioned air from the house

Yes, buy a good quality capacitor ! But most HVAC companies gouge their services pricing!! Learn to do the service yourself!! I had 2 ridiculous service charges!! So now, I’m well prepared to do it myself!!

He quickly noticed he was doing a gluc gluc in the straw example. Good recovery though

Isn't the main advantage is you can install a bigger tonnage for winter heating power without being oversized in the summer. Now I get you don't want it to be too big but if your last system was appropriate and you want it to be your heater and work through cold spells you want the next step up.

As a person that currently has a single unit R10 ducted central air system in a two-story split level home; Mr Cool DIY offers the ability to purchase adequate air conditioning tailored for each room, scale the project over time that meets budget constraints and offers me an upgrade for less money spent overall, even after considering proper electrical upgrade costs.

My understanding is R32 coolant is flammable since it is propane and a few cases have already reared their ugly head in explosions.

Sounds like click bait! Let me see, I know 2 American companies, but I’m not gonna say who, most capacitors are equal & obviously better than the failed one in your unit. Easy to change out if your a DYI’ER. Plenty of YT video on how to do this and not get ripped off by your local AC guy!

turn off the dang music.....

Ask about using r22b with the old r22 system

I hate these things

One thing to know is that this is NOT a decision made by the air HVAC/R equipment manufacturer the decision is made by the EPA. Long time ago we had refrigerants like R12 wich is ozone depleting and then it made a hole in the ozone layer. Well EPA said we have to make refrigerants that are less depleting an the famous R22 came out. Then EPA said we have to move to non ozone depleting refrigerants and R410A was introduced. The non ozone depleting have a high GLOBAL WARMING POTENTIAL and now we are moving to a NON OZONE DEPLETING WITH LOW GWP..and thats how we have R32 and 454B in new equipment now. This is the reason why something that was compliant yesterday is not today. We will see new refrigerants in the future for sure.

Should it be on fan or Auto?

The online mini splits are what a lot of people buy including myself, because they don't want to spend insane amounts of money for a HVAC contractor to install them.

Does the current Daikin Fit, as sold today (2024), already use the new R32 refrigerant in the U.S. If they already use R32 in the rest of the world why not here now?

Turned it off at 9 min. Never said anything about quality, longevity, technology, cost

Im at a cross roads for a new career. This is very helpful

My unit is over 20yrs old. Still works but not energy efficient. I appreciate your info and plan to get a unit with R32

worthless video.

Thank you 🙏🏼

If this is the way we are going, so be it... After over 40 yrs in the industry, I'm done... Have a nice day... Our construction is extremely different then Europe and Asia, i know this first hand. I own property in the Philippines, have traveled most of Asia and Europe, we use ducted systems with larger capacitys and place them in tucked away spaces. They use smaller systems, have mostly concrete construction and don't have the fire hazards we do. Sorry, I can't go and put this in someones home with kids or elderly and then go home, kiss my daughter goodnight and be able to sleep. You may be able to but my conscience won't allow me. The fact that we have sensors on the system and we turn everything off and the run a non seeled electric motor because we (don't want an explanation) after we just said (no, it will hardly burn) tells me all I need to know. 30 yrs ago, i would trust my government to do the right thing, but after the last 8 years, I think I'd need to count my fingers after shaking there hand... I know I'm in the minority on this one and I might feel different about it if we took our time changing over but this whole thing smells... Anyway, after being in business for 35 years, there will be one less gen Xer out there to compete with. I know you don't agree but hey, you do you... I've made plenty of $$ to last me so I'd rather be able to get a good night's sleep then add to my bank account...

Going on 25 years on my RUUD/Weather King 3 ton and it’s still blowing nice cold air. A hard start was installed in the second year and the contactor was replaced twice and the run capacitor once. It’s been a great unit! I had a Weather King 15kw blower installed at the same time and never had any issues with it either.

If anyone understands anything, please explain it to me!!!

I’m a 73 year old lady.. have changed the capacitor in my a/c twice in the past 10 years.. each time it was under 20.00.. it’s an easy fix.. anyone can do it themselves.

So it's been proven that global warming is the deep states. Crock of s*** to just charge people a bunch of money.and they can launder money

Thanks. I'm going to try this and see how it works. It seems pretty logical though, cuz I do have a big ass hole, lol 😂

Whic basic Studay to start for HVAC?

Thank you so much for the vid!

Do you an opinion of Lenox? Heard they have quality control issues?

Really helpful tips on building an HVAC business! Has anyone tried Field Rocket? It’s supposed to market your business while you focus on work. Looking for content or reviews!

I think changing a capacitor should be covered in a minimum service call. That can be $50 or $500, either way the customer should always be informed of the minimum service call price before you come to them. Service call plus the part cost.

Ill be glad when its stamped out in stone. Small guys revamping all the tools is a decent blow to the pocket

You are way off base!!!! when you braze you anneal the copper making is softer. This weakens the copper next to the braze, just like electrical welding on steel. the braze itself is stronger than a solder joint, but the weakened copper is now an issue. The lower heat when soldering with Staybrite 8 does not anneal the copper, and reduces the risk of valve damage from over heating. You statements are simply False. Staybrite 8 is rated at 14,000 lbs. your strength statements are a joke.

daikin needs to do what kia did years ago with their warranty (up'd to 10 year / 100,000 mi) vs carrier/bryant and trane/american standard...as in, daikan needs to offer a multi-year parts AND LABOR warranty. they need to be first to offer a LABOR warranty. why no labor warranty in the hvac business? why? labor should be covered in cases such as the following: my two-year old amana ASX16042 ac unit decided to start leaking at the low pressure switch. this is not a serviceable part (as in, you can't screw the bad switch off and screw a new one in without evacuating the system, torching the old switch off, brazing a new switch on, pulling a vacuum, and then recharging) and is part of the bad design of this unit...as in, OEM problem. why would an ac unit not have a mid to high failure part such as low/high pressure switches, that can be changed out without having to get into the refrigerant? just an $800 repair bill waiting to happen based on current design. $30 part, $770 labor?! total BS and, well, thats what it cost me. a knowledgeable tech came out and actually installed a schrader valve on the low side that the new switch could screw into if it ever goes bad again. daikin could be doing this at the factory. consumers like me are getting screwed. if my honda car breaks within the first 3 years, the problem is covered...parts and labor. these manufacturers need to step up in this area. i would NEVER buy another amana system, even if they are supposedly "good." why? because my first service call for an issue cost me $800 when both the part AND LABOR should have been covered...with both components being charged back to the manufacturer. the only real quantifiable improvement within the industry will only happen if the manufacturers have to start taking it on the chin for costs related their poor designs.

I need advice / direction. Here are the facts: 1) my home was built in 2007 2) it is two story with basement 3) I currently have two "traditional" (R22) hvac systems: one for basement and first floor. The other for second floor. 4) I think the second story mini split should be straight forward. My concern is the first floor minisplit install. Is there any way to leverage my current duct work to avoid having a "cassette" hanging on the wall? 5) are there any other pieces of info that would be helpful let me know. Thanks!

Thank you for sharing this info about the mini split AC units. I am not an HVAC tech but I do many DIY things around the house and mini split AC units are among them as well. I can check the pressure in the system but I cant tell how much its missing to add accordingly so Yes I do agree with your statement to completely discharge and recharge based on the label numbers and those systems are not that smart to tell you how much free on is missing in the system. Thank you once again for sharing the info. God bless you and your family.

I am the only company in my area who honor the capacitor warranties. I have warrantied more amrad than titan pro. Thats my experience. If you read the factory read out of a lot of the Amrad they sometimes read lower than the MFD rating. And 9 times put of 10 there a reason the capacitor failed, they just dont "go bad".

I bought the SL28XCV A/C unit top of the line, along with its companion variable brand new furnace. Well the A/C unit was making a very audible buzzing noise that I was told was "NORMAL". So I had to be persistent or they would have left it as it. Turns out it was a transformer controller when pressed the noise stopped. New replacement part = no noise. Then another issue whenever it runs I hear a fast annoying ticking noise... again very audible & yet again told it was "NORMAL". Upon calling Lennox all I get was some lackluster know nothing guy who could not speak clearly and told me to call my local installer... But they tell me it is "NORMAL". So I am forced to source additional advise outside my zip code in hope another installer or dealer will be kind enough to listen to the noise on the top tier variable motor A/C Lennox unit. Additionally the inducer motor on the SLP99V variable furnace inside made such a ridiculous noise I was also told was "NORMAL" that could not be fixed even after a replacement causing me to spend over $300.00 in sound deadening materials and 2 months researching the how to install as my bedroom is in the basement with the Furnace. That I solved with zero help from Lennox. I found one named Greg from up North and await his response. If you would like to hear the fast ticking noise here is the video just turn up your volume some if needed. Any input appreciated. Link here on UA-cam: ua-cam.com/users/shortsA-gbWJtiyCc

I don't want a duckless system. I like ducks.

Duel capacitor is the problem split them up any make will last longer

I live in NJ and the city wants me to raise my condenser 8 feet! I live near a river in flood zone. 😊

These comments are the problem with America, all hvac techs should go on strike to give these entitled homeowners a reality check.

at the point of the dye, dont know on the oil and copper part though. Is the oil tripping the system and causing a leak? yes know need to do a manual reset... All i can say is its not holding pressure.

Capacitor question for the experts. I bought a dual capacitor 40/5 but label reads 370V. Original capacitor reads 370/440V is it ok to use? please advise

AMrad is 5 years warranty and made here in the USA, Florida. I think JARD and MARS are made in the USA as are Titan HD. I have a 1991 Amana condenser and it still has the OEM cap and contactor that still works, no leaks, no bulging etc. Unbelievable. Good capacitors are 370/440 volt rated and made in USA. Also, a good cap is going to cost $30 to $40 vs. $10 to $15 for the junk that lasts maybe 2 years. It is always a good idea to have a brand new spare handy for the hot summer day/night that you need a new capacitor and HVAC is swamped with service calls and can't see you for 2 to 3 days. Or, they haven't got the correct one at the time, you can supply them with the spare for less downtime.

I saw at least a couple of YT videos that suggested replacing a 330V rated cap with a 440V rated cap. I don't know if a mounting bracket needed to be bigger but that shouldn't be a big deal.

Bad argument. The same for all filters if we do not taking care or replace it.

We usually choose capacitors based on the specs of interest, like rated operating voltage, max peak voltage, internal resistance, operating and peak current ratings, operating temp range, dielectric hysteresis, size, terminal configuration, case style and bonding ,and of course capacitance value. A reputable company will provide these parameters and be honest about it We can install separate capacitors in place of those multi-capacitor assemblies when there's adequate space available.

Titan HD made in USA. Titan Pro made in PRC.

Mars capacitors.

Thanks so much for a really great video! Very clear explanations and guidance for mini splits. I am installing it myself (DIY'er) and have run into many extremely time consuming delays and problems, need for all sorts of special tools, etc. I've watched many of these installation videos, and of course my situation is vastly more difficult (for reasons I won't go into) than any of the installations shown here on youtube. I am attempting this myself because I didn't want to get ripped for $4000 to install an $1100 unit. The 45 page instruction booklet is a fountain of confusion and omissions. It didn't even contain a company name or phone number for problems or questions. Special trip to Home Depot just to ask the company name and get a phone number. When I called, one of my many questions was what coolant does it use? The instruction booklet mentions many different coolants with different guidance. The lady said you don't need to inject coolant because it's already in the system! I asked, why doesn't the 45 page instruction explain this?? Multiply this kind of problem by about 200, and you see why this isn't so easy for the non-professional to install. I could write a whole long chapter about all the problems I've had so far. Anyway, at one point I called the HVAC company who put in my central air years ago, to ask if they can finish installing the copper line, use vacuum, the gauges, etc. They said NO, because they didn't install the whole thing! See how it works? If they can't charge you the $4000, then they don't want to help you out even though you pay for their work!